DOLCE & GABBANA A/W 2014.15
""Enchanted Sicily" was the title Dolce & Gabbana gave their collection, but what we saw was actually a timely departure from the overtly folkloric tone of the duo’s recent collections.
For the men’s show, it was the seven Norman kings who swept down from the North. Here, it was their female consorts who inspired the embroidery and gilding, the gothic appliqué, the studded balaclavas and gauntlets. Those antique invaders brought their myths and legends with them, and that, according to Gabbana, is when fairies arrived in Italy. The recurrent motif in the collection was the key that opened the door to a secret garden.
For all the arcana of their inspiration, the clothes themselves managed to build a bridge to the real world, or at least a world real enough for a woman to wear an A-line tweed coat with a little appliqué, a skirt suit in deepest forest green, or even one of the beautiful Riding Hood capes. As a shortcut to escape while the world’s weather patterns surrender to globally warmed insanity, they could scarcely be more apt. Of course, Domenico and Stefano couldn’t leave it there. They marched a platoon of gothic Tinkerbells down the catwalk as a finale. Who doesn’t need some fairy dust? ” │ via Style
DSQUARED² A/W 2014.15
"If, three cities in, anyone is suffering from fashion fatigue, then Dean and Dan Caten have got it covered. This morning they set up a “hospital” for those feeling victimised of the fashion variety as their autumn/winter 2014 charade kicked into action and Sixties glamour – albeit purposefully dishevelled at times – took to the catwalk. Ankles on super high sandals came suitably shackled (for restraint purposes, obviously), and every outfit had an air of Norma Desmond about it, this Hollywood star now hiding behind her bejewelled sunglasses and satin column gowns in the confines of the DSquared2 institution." │ via Vogue
EMILIO PUCCI A/W 2014.15
"Entitled Call of the Wild, the show had all the signature Pucci elements – mini dresses densely beaded with the house print in gold; matching heels that laced up the side; second-skin leather trousers with the same raunchy leather side stitching; bulging dyed furs and beautiful silky jersey dresses which, particularly on Joan Smalls in a rich brown to perfectly complement her skin tone, was just as desirable as Pucci can be.
But alongside all the front line sex appeal that Dundas is relied upon by his gorgeous bevy of fashion groupies, there were some less determinedly flesh-baring looks that gave the show an alluring come hither element of sophistication: beautifully cut trouser suits in wine red or bottle green velvet and oversized belted Navajo knits that were apparently inspired by the designer’s Norwegian roots. It was nice to see the Pucci girl allowed to relax just a fraction – and proved she can look just as good without revealing all.” │ via Vogue